Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Gardens

Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds gather.

This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with plump mauve grapes on a sprawling allotment situated between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of the city downtown.

"I've seen people hiding heroin or other items in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who make wine from four hidden urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and community plots throughout the city. It is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.

City Wine Gardens Around the Globe

To date, the grower's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre area and over 3,000 vines overlooking and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has discovered them throughout the world, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards help cities remain greener and more diverse. They protect land from development by creating permanent, productive agricultural units within cities," says the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a product of the soils the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who tend the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a city," adds the president.

Unknown Eastern European Variety

Back in the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he grew from a cutting left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. If the rain arrives, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast again. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he comments, as he cleans damaged and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Efforts Across the City

Additional participants of the collective are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from approximately 50 vines. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her family in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already survived three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."

Sloping Gardens and Natural Winemaking

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established over 150 vines situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the silty local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of vines arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her child, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can make interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually create quality, natural wine," she states. "It is quite on trend, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing wine."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries add preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently add a lab-grown culture."

Challenging Conditions and Creative Solutions

A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has assembled his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits the retiree with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable local weather is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to install a fence on

Devin Robinson
Devin Robinson

A passionate Sicilian tour guide with over 10 years of experience in showcasing the island's hidden gems.