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It's pumpkin season and most anticipated time of the year, not least for all the spiced dishes and other hearty meals of autumn. This Rajasthani sautéed dish is a regular in my kitchen, and the combination of ginger, chilli and palm sugar lends it a wonderful balance of flavour. This layered rice dish, on the other hand, is packed with whole spices, basmati and clarified butter, which provide enhanced taste to the layers of grains and produce.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

National curry week begins around October 6, so what better way to celebrate than with a flavorful, warming, single-pot layered rice dish? For convenience, make the vegetable curry element ahead of time and layer everything on the occasion you plan to eat.

Preparation 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Yields 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cut into bite-sized pieces
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or water
Salt, to taste
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

First make the curry base. Melt the ghee in a large, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat, incorporate the cumin seeds, bay and clove spices, and fry for a brief moment. Stir in the sliced onion and sauté, stirring often, for about half an hour, until softened. Once onions begin caramelizing, remove half to a plate and reserve (for later use during the layering).

Add the green chillies and ginger strips to the remaining onions, fry for a brief period, then mix in the tomato paste, chilli powder, turmeric powder and coriander, and fry for a minute. Turn down to a gentle flame, stir in the yogurt and cook for a couple of minutes.

Mix in the squash and mushrooms, stir to coat in the spices, then fry for three minutes. Add the stock or water, and season to taste. Bring to a boil, then turn down the temperature, cover and cook gently for about twenty minutes, mixing midway to ensure nothing's stuck to the bottom of the pan. Garnish with coriander, then remove from the heat.

Preheat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Wash the rice, then put it in a saucepan with a quart of water and the bay leaves, cardamom pods and salt. Bring to a boil, simmer for 10-12 minutes, until partially cooked, then drain.

For assembling the biryani, put a spoonful of melted ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Spoon one portion the vegetable curry, then layer with half the cooked grains. Sprinkle a portion the saffron infusion, ginger, mint leaves, cardamom powder and spice blend, then add the caramelized onions. Layer with the remaining curry mixture, then spoon on the remaining rice. Finish with the rest of ghee, saffron water, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and spice mix.

Seal with baking paper, place lid securely, then bake on the middle shelf of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so the aromas infuse the grains. Take out of the oven, allow to stand, still covered, for 10 minutes, then lift off the cover and serve with raita and salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Squash with Spice Blend Sauté)

The Indian word "pickling style" describes seasoning a dish using preserving spices, and the mix contains mustard seeds, fennel seeds, fenugreek, cumin, hing and kalonji, but they're not used only in preserved foods. This mixture also appears in various types of curries and sautéed preparations, such as this one.

Preparation 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Put the mustard, fenugreek and fennel in a mortar, roughly grind, then set aside. Put the cooking oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a moderate flame. Add the ground spices and the asafoetida, and sauté, mixing, for a brief moment. Add the chopped ginger, fry for a minute, then stir in the squash, chilli and turmeric, and sauté, tossing, for several additional minutes.

Add a small amount water to the pot, salt with salt to taste and bring to a boil. Cover, turn down the flame, and simmer for about twenty minutes, stirring once halfway. Mix in the jaggery, breaking up chunks a little, then add the mango powder, mix thoroughly and present hot with chapatis or naan.